Monday, October 25, 2010

Delhi and Agra: Arches, arches, and more arches



Study abroad is like a big fat lie you tell the registrar. “Oh, yes,” you tell them, “I’d like to broaden my horizons and study abroad.” It sounds so noble and worldly. Thing is, we all just want an excuse to travel, or for some to escape Chicago. We’re lying when we say, “study” because (while most of us don’t want to fail our classes here), we’re all here with one purpose in mind: to see as much of India as possible, to live in India. I’m not saying that we don’t work hard; I’m just saying that moving campus to India and studying until our brains explode is not what we’re here for. At least that’s certainly not what my intentions are here. I want India overload for three months. This past week, that’s just what we got. And you know how the saying goes….careful what you wish for…

The first couple days of our 9-day break I had a staycation, recuperating from my bout of dengue fever. But on the fourth day, I picked up and headed to Delhi. I went to join my five friends (all female) who were also going to Delhi after a short stay in Mussoorie. They saw the very tips of the Himalayas and say it was quite beautiful. 

DELHI...upon first impression seemed so tame in comparison to the other cities we've seen in India. At least as far as the roads were concerned. There was a median between lanes of oncoming traffic! Not only a median, oh no, there were even efforts to have landscaping (!) on the median; plants that were actually intended to be there and maintained! I thought I was in the States for a bit. Then we arrived at the house we were staying at...which was awesome! We were so lucky one of the girls had a connection that let us stay in this great place for a couple of days. We were also lucky enough to be treated like princesses--there was a small staff that cooked for us and drove us all around Delhi and to Agra for a day-trip. 

Our first night in Delhi, the capital city of India, we did some shopping and had a nice dinner with one of the girl's parents. We also passed by the presidential mansion and houses of parliament. The presidential mansion was immense but the most exciting sight turned out to be monkeys that made their way on the top of the gate and jumped (they really looked like they were flying) around the grounds. 

AGRA....was our first full day. We woke up at some ungodly hour and drove for hours. Sleeping in a car isn't usually difficult for me, but when the roads are often unpaved and beeping is a way of life...well, you get the point. So after the mildly painful drive over we picked up our guide and headed for the famous Taj Mahal. Which, by the way, is not pronounced the way you've been saying it all your life. It's a two-syllable name pronounced as if you were saying "taj mawl." I'm sure you all know what I'm taking about but for you visual people I've included a photo. Overall, I was mildly impressed--more impressed by some aspects than others. The details on the inside of the building were rather incredible- some small floral carvings (maybe 2" across) had 16 different tiny pieces of marble inlaid in a larger slab (maybe 5' x 3'). It's possible that I appreciated these details more because 1) you're not allowed to take pictures inside so you're forced to actually look around and observe (what a shame) and 2) it was shady inside and given that we toured the Taj Mahal at midday, shade was a welcome thing. Agra is the temperature I'd imagine hell to be, plus or minus a couple degrees. Oh, and 3) I'm sorry but I just can't accept that this building was at all necessary. Ok, it's mildly romantic that some guy built this to house his beloved (third) wife but really it's a total and complete waste. I'm sympathetic to religious structures, but a mausoleum that took twenty thousand workers twelve years to complete?! C'mon. (Sorry if I just ruined the building for you, it's overrated anyways). 
Behind some greenery
A slightly different view
Some of the details on the outside resemble those within--note the colorful floral adornments at the base of the arch
After the Taj, we'd really worked up an appetite so we headed to a restaurant. We then decided that said restaurant was too expensive and we should try for a cheaper option. Along the way to the restaurant, we'd passed a McDonalds. And yes, I'll admit it, I'll even profess it proudly, we did indeed visit that lovely home of the famous golden arches. It. was. delicious. And a cultural experience, I might add. A couple of us feasted on McAloo Tikka sandwiches which have fried spicy potato (in lieu of a burger), some red sauce that's not ketchup, and tomato. Maybe I was just overly famished but it tasted amazing--I've never been so impressed with McDonalds before. (Well, aside from when they had really awesome toys that came in my Happy Meal and I got to swim around in those playground pools of plastic balls...back when I was too young to consider the germs involved.) We also all feasted on brownie sundaes afterwards and I've got to say having one of those (even Micky D's quality) after more than a month of withdraw was quite fulfilling. I've got to say, McDonalds definitely provided me with a very happy meal. 

McAloo Tikka with fries (India does fries well, by the way)
We passed by Agra's Red Fort after lunch but we were all so exhausted from the heat that we ended up just taking pictures outside and saving ourselves the Rs. 250 entrance fee. Ok, so that's less than $5 but we had just paid Rs. 750 to see the Taj Mahal. I suppose the entry prices wouldn't be upsetting if the price wasn't so outrageously different for Indian Nationals. At all these "World Heritage Sights," tourists end up paying at least Rs. 250 and the locals pay Rs 10 or 20. Why am I not more tan?? 

Our second day we saw more of the sights of Delhi. This included Delhi's Red Fort (they seem to be big on those in India), the Gandi memorial, and Lodi gardens. The Red Fort was reminiscent of the Taj Mahal with similar inlaid marble work. As for the Gandi memorial, I'm not sure Gandi would have wanted one...? I feel like that wouldn't be part of his very "Golden Mean"-esque life...but who am I to question the memorial-maker? Lodi gardens was a nice place, we stayed just long enough to snap this picture. 

In the name of not overwhelming you (or giving you too much to distract from whatever you should be doing), my next post will bring details of our journey via train to Varanasi and our adventures there. And, of course, anything else that might happen that I think will entertain you. Stay tuned! 

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